Monday, April 2, 2012

Neutral Is A Color

Ceramic Fragrance Diffuser Pots Ready For Firing


Todd In Central China








Many years ago when I was a protégé senior majoring in graphic design, working at the University of Houston, with my mentor (we’ll call him P.B.) , I recall asking the question, “Hey, why don’t we do this particular exercise in color; why always black and white?”  Without hesitation he said, “if it looks good in black and white then it will only look better in color.”  
I live by those words to this day; even when I’m working on something I think I already understand and have a solution for; even when I am so confident that I can jump ahead in my process (which never works for me), I always come back to that tired old axiom.  Well, old certainly now that I’m over fifty but still as true as the day he uttered those words. 
I remember working with a ceramic factory in Vietnam some years ago and the sales manager there was making fun of me because she always thought my color direction was so boring, “Always browns!.”   “Why don’t you ever use colors?” While I do recall feeling somewhat inadequate and dull as a designer when she said that, and while I have begun using a lot more color in my collections, I am still very cautious. Admittedly mauve to normal people is bright pink to me; as my color ranges are usually pretty muted.  That being said; one can have too many colors, textures, circles, whatever.  One can have too much of a good thing.  I blame my love of neutrals on my training as a graphic designer, as well as my experience designing for the home, and probably my childhood (just kidding!)  Neutral does not have to be boring and indeed can be positively striking if used in an interesting way.  Black and white is about as basic as it gets; but add a warm brown and make something a texture, etc...and voila!  Start with a cold gray straight from The Eastern Bloc fifty years ago,  add contrast, and warmth, and you have a new urban basic. 
In the end I let my customers tell me what is right.  Karl Lagerfeld said it best when he said, “We as designers can only propose ideas, we cannot make the customers buy anything.”    Our customer will always make her feelings known, her preferences heard; and in the end, she will have a lot of basic neutrals in her closet, as well as in her home.

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Ambiente, The Frankfurt Fair (Part Two)

New Ceramic Product











To those of us toiling in the “Home" categories, Ambiente is the world’s buying Mecca; simply put it is the largest decorative, living, and giving market in the world, which takes place once a year in February,  (The coldest month of the year I might add), not in the Middle East, but Frankfurt , Germany.   Each year buyers and sellers converge here (with overcoats in hand) looking for the next new thing, or just hoping that they might have the next new thing, and that the worlds buyers will beat a path to their stand. Never mind that their stand might be only a hundred square feet,  in a sea of ten foot stands, on the fourth floor of building number six, located in a complex that has eleven buildings.  Well, you get the picture, the Frankfurt Fair is a big place!  
Pomeroy, finally started exhibiting at the fair some years ago, as I had been reticent to show in Frankfurt for a variety of reasons:  one of which was simply a question of what merchandise to show; should we show our gift box line, San Miguel, or open stock decorative items as well.  My primary concern however, was that culturally what I was designing for the American market, decorative lighting in a box, would not appeal aesthetically to the rest of the world, and what if no one saw the value of our concept, not to mention that exhibiting at a fair, thousands of miles away is expensive and complicated.  After much debate we made the decision to attend, and we would finally find out what all of the noise was about; and besides, if we could just write enough business to cover the cost of the show then at least we could consider the show a success. In the end we decided to show primarily our photo boxed gift and lighting line with some open stock mixed in to break up all of those boxes.  
Make no mistake, I have known plenty of companies over the years that have shown at Frankfurt and not written any business at all much less getting to a breakeven point.  Frankfurt is the “marketplace” in action; your concepts, designs, and pricing can either be validated, vindicated, or simply ignored.  The answer to our question, whether we would be understood by the marketplace came swiftly:  by the end of the four day show we had sold to customers in approximately ten countries for a total of half a million dollars; it was the largest writing show we had ever had. As sweet as that validation was, I am constantly reminded of the markets fickleness as I was recently, during this year’s Ambiente, and how easily it could have gone the other way, walking by so many companies who are eating lunch, talking to the person next door, or playing cards on their computers, because they have nothing else to do, waiting for at least one customer who is looking for the next new thing;   who will get them to breakeven, or maybe, just maybe, in the black.  
    

Sunday, March 18, 2012

Ambiente, The Frankfurt Fair (Part One)

Ambiente Fair, Frankfurt, February 2012




Coral At the Pomeroy Showroom, Atlanta











While the Ambiente fair, held in Frankfurt,  Germany each February, is the single largest design event in the world for retail buyers and sellers of home categories, it holds particular interest for a small group of people who both participate in, and create for the various companies exhibiting there; Designers.
If I was going to compare it to a food related event (as I often do) then I would have to say it’s like Mario Batali going to a farmers market;   you can enjoy an tremendous variety of raw materials on display and even try finished dishes cooked in the small eateries which always seem close by.  Ambiente for the designer is like a wonderful cacophony of textures, smells, colors, and form, all positioned nicely in eleven buildings with multiple floors. Fortunately they do have moving sidewalks!
For myself, there are two main aspects to Frankfurt; aside from the fact that Pomeroy shows there for our international customers, as a designer my focus is twofold;  to meet any factories that I am currently working with; as well as new ones,  to see if they have any new finishes or materials, which I can use in my collections; and to visit the European designer exhibits; which are usually impressive, if not only for the fact that they are of a scale like nothing we can ever imagine in the United States.  
Indeed one can become intoxicated by the sheer enormity of these exhibits; not only by their physical size but by their vision of the design story they are telling.  Herein lies the seduction, which is easy enough to spot; there will be a theme for the exhibit and everything will support that particular theme; worked out to the last detail, including great design, rich and sophisticated color stories, and of course, cocktails!  The Champagne notwithstanding, it is easy, as an American, to become swept up in the strength and dynamism of these displays, but we always have to use our American filter to analyze the viability of the product.  That is to say, on the whole a presentation might be incredible,  but what happens when you take an item out from its cozy display and put it on a table by itself; is it still as interesting; is it still valid (at least for the American market)?   And while I do love these exhibits and at times cannot seem to get enough of them it is always the pull of my home market that drags me back kicking and screaming to the central question: “ Can we sell a vase that modern?”  If I teleported it to Dallas, Texas would it still “fit”.  Is orange really the new pink anywhere but Europe?  Why exactly does it appeal to me anyway?   These are all important and thorny questions which must inevitably be answered with cold hard analysis, and sometimes relaxing with your feet up, sipping an orange cocktail, like a mimosa.    

Sunday, March 11, 2012

New Is Old and Old is New

Todd Taking A Tea Break



















I return every year to the factories that I deal with the most for a couple of reasons; one is to renew our acquaintance and compare notes on our experiences with the business climate and their condition in particular, another is to walk through their showroom;  again.
At first blush it seems redundant to go back to a factory just to review a bunch of samples you have already seen.  I mean, what’s the point;  why would anyone do that?  First of all the factories are working for other customers as well as myself, which gives me a look into what competitors are thinking, which allows me to gauge myself against what they are doing.  In a competitive environment like our industry, I have to constantly re-evaluate what I am doing; in taste level, style, and price point.  
Something else interesting happens when I visit the factory again, I see things I did not notice before.  That’s not to say they were not there before but I just hadn’t noticed them.  This is a phenomenon which goes back to a changing fashion industry.  Two years ago, the thought of doing something in coral for example would never have crossed my mind, therefore had I seen something in this coloration I would have breezed past, simply because I had other things on my radar at the time.  On the next visit coral had indeed been added to my radars menu of items to focus on and I was able to take advantage of some decorating techniques on glass to capitalize on this new fashion color for one of my collections.
This is a dramatization of course, but coral has in fact become more important and I began to add it to the collection last year.  At any rate you get the point; something that was not important a year ago, old in fact, can become important again overnight, provided we do not take the item as it is; an update is always necessary when taking an older look and applying to current fashion.  Vintage is a good example.  If we take a sheer layered lace encrusted white dress and put it together with Victorian mid ankle lace up boots then we have an “antique” or a historical replica of vintage, and let’s throw in a cameo broach for good measure. If we however combine taller lace up (combat) boots and some newer interesting jewelry with some current color accents, we have an updated version (urban vintage) that could even handle a cameo broach and survive.
So, you might ask why this discussion is even necessary. Mainly it’s because there are not many truly new techniques (save perhaps fish leather), that come onto the market very often; therefore we are left with the same basic raw materials to work with (and our imagination of course) and must always look for new combinations, techniques, or manipulations to render something fresh that might remind someone of something they saw once but is new, fresh with a twist, and definitely not their grandmothers prom dress. So, yes I suppose you could say I go back to factories every year looking for vintage and perhaps a technique that will elevate it…   

Thursday, March 1, 2012

The Small Things


Todd Working In India























More often than not I find interesting details in odd places; like dusty corners, of dusty shelves, in dusty showrooms of dusty factories, which so happens to be my favorite environment.   When I see something interesting, I may react to it immediately and start to make notes for samples of the finish or sit and draw something appropriate for that finish, while other times I will continue to wander the factory until I catch myself staring at that same finish again.  A rule of thumb for me is, if I can’t take my eyes off of it,  then I have to do something with it.  The next instinctive question is;  what should I do with this; is it best suited for serve ware;  is it translucent (good for lighting);  or just plain beautiful.  In the case of the later I  generally  let logic play a role and use the finish on a number of pieces that coordinate together as a small decorative collection.  It may seem adolescent, but I still get chills when I see the “right” finish.  Sometimes the “right” finish is in fact a mistake,  like champagne.  Although to date none of my mistakes has turned into a new food group, I have stumbled onto some wonderful techniques on glass, iron, and wood, that have propelled my collections in meaningful new directions.
I like to visit the glass factories in India, even though they are located on the main highway from Delhi in a very rustic town south of Agra (the city where the Taj Mahal is located), called Firozabad.  I was there once (by accident) on election day and it was like being in Dodge City.  After that experience I understood why the bars all closed on election day!  Every time I go to Firozabad I find some detail or finish that I have not seen before or at least have not yet taken advantage of.  The Indian glass factories are very simple and uncomplicated affairs as they are in Mexico.  They use live electric wires to cut the blown glass (unllike Mexico), whose edge is then polished smooth.  
Over the years, by trial and error, I have learned that the Pomeroy customer accepts the edges finished in a couple of ways which depends on the finish on the glass as well.  If it is clear glass, they (she) prefers that I finish the glass with a sheet metal trim piece which is glued in place on the rim and finished to match the iron base on whatever the  item might be; such as a hurricane.  If however, I have the glass engraved then    
I can leave the raw (semi polished) edge of the glass exposed and the item is acceptable as it is.  My assumption has been that because we are cutting the glass anyway by engraving;  it is consistent to use a similar cut for the top of the glass, and that by doing so the details compliment one another. 
When trying a new technique (like engraving), finish, or color story,  my method is to start with baby steps, because lets face it no matter how much I may like something, I do not posses the crystal ball of fashion and good taste.  We are in the end only designers suggesting ideas to the consumer, and they will either accept (the suggestion) or not;  therefore it is very important to step lightly into a new area and react accordingly, which was the case with engraved glass from Firozabad.  I found myself as I often do, staring at some amazing engraving (with adolescent chills) and (fortunately), had the good sense to exercise my rule of thumb.   

Monday, January 30, 2012

Game Changers

Riviera Set of Two Wall Sconces




























When I begin to look for a new category to design and develop product for, the first thing I do as part of my process is to look at the marketplace in as many retailers as possible to determine what is missing, that is what techniques, or function, or even scale are the current offerings not representing.  This can be the seed of an idea which will transform a given category even if only a little in the beginning.  
We, as designers cannot always transform the world with game changing ideas; most of the time we are lucky if we can move the needle one mark at a time until we have transformed a category.  A car is ultimately a thing that carries people from place to place and has a steering wheel, motor, and four wheels.  No matter how many design changes take place, in the end the final product is still a car.  The same is true for most mature categories;  in this case wall sconces.
Many years ago, we at Pomeroy, had tremendous success with a very simple wrought iron wall sconce called Riviera.  This was a new idea at the time; not that a wall sconce was a something new;  it was new because we came up with the idea to create a set of two and include candles to create more value in the box, and to this day I am convinced that the item sold as well as it did because of the added value of the candles.
This product concept would be the beginning of a long line of gift box decorative candle lighting products which would transform our industry and continues as a product category to this day; and while there are products which will be game changers for categories of product, more often it is small continuous innovations which breath new life into a mature line of product.   

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Showing At Shows (part two)



Pomeroy Showroom, Atlanta 2012



















While that first show experience in San Francisco yielded modest results, it was encouraging enough to go further, especially considering my sales rep (we’ll call him A.M.) was very patient with me, even letting me crash on his couch in the basement (with the dalmatian).
Trade shows are a double edged affair;  while you are exhibiting to meet customers and write orders, you are also the target of other vendors, especially if you have come up with something unique. It used to upset me greatly in the early years when they would come by the booth;  retail in those days was healthy and competition intense.  After several years in the business I realized that a good offense is more important and effective than a good defense;  and actually in our business there is no defense anyway;  there is no real way to stop someone from copying your ideas or designs.  
When I did start designing product (a year or so after I started), I decided to follow a fashion strategy; that is I would develop product for two major introductions (Spring and Fall), and move fast; ALWAYS.  The idea being to cover every major account that I had with my new introductions and get orders placed as soon as possible.  When a company moves at this speed it is hard for a competitor to keep up, and when they do copy you, they only have price to compete with and by then you have moved on to new territory (designs), and their offerings are, well, just knockoffs.
Shows are still as exciting for me now as they were twenty years ago.  I still become excited, emotional, nervous, and generally hard to live with, prior to the first show of the season in Atlanta.  It is, for me a fashion show and I will live or die (metaphorically of course) based on the reaction to the new product.  I love the honesty of the marketplace;  something good is really good and something that doesn’t work needs to be re-thought or dropped altogether.  After a market you always know where you stand.  So while there is always competition about, whether it is another vendor or a large retailers product development team; I have learned to rely on my product game plan, designed to keep Pomeroy unique and different, and alway, S P E E D!